As we begin to rebuild our denim wall, I’ve noticed that my colleagues and I have been approached with many questions regarding the cost, the difference between regular vs. selvage denim, etc. etc. ; so, I just wanted to break it down a bit so shopping for your ultimate pair of jeans is a little easier….
Probably the most asked question in the store is why do some jeans cost so much? I will give you a simple answer. Most of the jeans that we carry at ian are in the ‘inexpensive’ to ‘moderately-priced’ range (ie. Cheap Monday, Kill City); but, then we have brands that are a little more expensive (Dope & Drakkar, Stussy Deluxe). This is because they fall in the category of selvage denim.
Selvage denim forms a clean edge that doesn’t unravel; and, because of the slower weaving process which involves using an old fashioned “‘shuttle” loom, you get a better quality fabric; but produces less fabric. Since you use less fabric, you get a smaller batch; which in turn makes the denim price go up…you get the picture…
Also most selvage denim is sold in its raw or ‘dry’ state so the customer can wear the jeans and break them in themselves, creating their own creases or ‘whiskers’. Not all raw denim is selvage though. Due to the demand of the dark finish, a lot of companies produce their own raw jean without it being selvage. The main characteristic of a true selvage jean is the clean woven edge usually seen on the inside of the outer seam.
To meet the demands of the denim market many companies switched from shuttle looms to more efficient ‘projectile’ looms as early as the late sixties, which makes more product faster. However, one does sacrifice a certain quality that the shuttle loom produces such as a tighter, stronger weave; or the imperfections in the denim (the ‘slub’) that true denim connoisseurs love.
So that brings us to the question: regular vs. selvage? Generally, regular denim is pretty good for everyday wear and there many brands that are pretty amazing for being non selvage ( J Brand, Revel Seven which we carry, and of course Levi’s). They’ll last you providing you follow the washing directions on the tag. One rule of thumb though is the more you wear them, the less you wash them, the better. This allows the denim to mold to your body and take on your shape; providing the best fit possible after a few months wear. When you do finally wash them, a simple cold water cycle without soap in the washing machine usually does the trick (throw in 1/2 cup of salt to naturally disinfect your jeans).
So there you have it. Ultimately it’s not rocket science. They’re just jeans. But hopefully you’ll develop an appreciation for the process of those pricier jeans and maybe you’ll come and try on a pair or even buy them; but, if a pair of regularly made jeans that make the butt look great are more your speed, then that’s just as good.
